Thursday, November 26, 2009

“Using your roots to flavor Thanksgiving dinner - North County Times” plus 3 more

“Using your roots to flavor Thanksgiving dinner - North County Times” plus 3 more

Using your roots to flavor Thanksgiving dinner - North County Times

Posted: 26 Nov 2009 12:11 AM PST

Nothing says Thanksgiving like ---- pastitsio?

"For Thanksgiving, my mother actually did a turkey, which was a pretty big step for her, but everything else on the table was Greek," said Michael Psilakis, the chef behind New York's Anthos restaurant.

For his family, pastitsio, a lasagna-like dish of noodles and eggy, Greek bechamel sauce, was just as important as the bird.

Thanksgiving called for a similar blending of cultures in the Korean household of chef David Chang, who dubs the famous pork buns, ginger scallion noodles and ramen of his Momofuku restaurants "American" food.

"Thanksgiving was almost a potluck," Chang said, remembering the dozens of relatives who tottered in with heaping trays of short ribs called kalbi-jim, the pickled cabbage called kimchi, and the noodle dish chop che. "We would have Korean dishes that were traditionally cooked on celebratory occasions and your Thanksgiving go-to classics. It was a feast."

Americans come from more than 125 nations, according to Census figures, and more than 299 million people ---- or 97 percent of the population ---- claim ethnic roots. So it's only fitting that on this iconic American holiday people draw on the melting pot for inspiration.

At the turn of the 19th century, Thanksgiving was appropriated as a way to "Americanize" new immigrants, said Sandra Oliver, the editor of Food History News and co-author of "Giving Thanks," a history of the holiday.

"There was considerable effort put into teaching these kids about the Thanksgiving holiday ---- it was done in the schools ---- and attributing all kinds of virtues to the sainted pilgrim forefathers, really elevating them beyond their significance," Oliver said.

"There are pictures of these little kids kitted out in pilgrim hats, no matter who they were. It met with some success. Kids are really good about going home and saying, 'We have to have turkey on Thursday.'"

The founders probably didn't count on the ingenuity of the newcomers, many of whom did adopt the holiday, but in their own way.

Marcela Valladolid, author of the cookbook "Fresh Mexico," grew up crossing the U.S.-Mexico border every day, leaving her Tijuana home before dawn to attend school in San Diego. She said she absorbed both cultures "100 percent" and so has her Thanksgiving celebration.

"We don't segregate it," she said. "It's not like the turkey is American and then there are tamales. There's chile in the turkey."

Valladolid glazes her turkey with an apricot, tequila and chile sauce and serves it alongside roasted chipotle acorn squash and Brussels sprouts in morilla cream. Valladolid said the feast was inspired by her cross-border experience, but also was a way to make the holiday truly inclusive for everyone in the family.

"My father barely speaks English," she said. "This holiday is very new for him. He started celebrating Thanksgiving when he married my mom. Try to sit down and have Thai food for the first time. It's intimidating. And I imagine that was the way my father felt the first time he sat down in front of a big fat turkey."

If Valladolid sees ethnicizing Thanksgiving as a way to bring the family's older generation into the new tradition, others see the reverse: a way to preserve and communicate culture to the next generation.

At New York's Tabla, Bombay-born chef Floyd Cardoz is known for merging Indian spices and sensibilities with American ingredients. After more than 20 years in the United States, he does the same at his Thanksgiving feast.

Cardoz brines his turkey in a pungent solution of fresh ginger and bay leaf, then dry-rubs it with black pepper, chiles, fresh garlic and crushed bay leaf. "I rub it all over the bird and under the skin too," he said. "It makes it more flavorful."

His stuffing spikes a cornbread base with Goan-style pork sausage, redolent of vinegar, garlic, cloves and cinnamon. The homemade cranberry sauce has touches of ginger, black pepper, cloves and cinnamon. "So it's a little more interesting than plain old canned cranberry," he said.

He also makes sure there's lots of heavy, Indian-style snacking on items such as samosas and spiced potato dumplings before the meal, and that there are plenty of Indian specialties as well, like rice pulao and a Goan pork stew full of pork belly, shoulder, liver and chile.

"By putting our beliefs into a meal, it ties my past with my kids' future," said Cardoz, whose sons are 12 and 16. "At some point when they have their kids and they're doing their Thanksgiving tradition, maybe there will be something from India in there, and it will bring them back. It ties up the generations when you do this."

Give your Thanksgiving stuffing a taste of Mexico with this recipe from Susan Trilling, who runs a cooking school in Oaxaca, Mexico. The stuffing has a sweet and spicy flavor from a combination of chiles, fennel, prunes and cumin.

RELLENO DE PAN (Oaxacan Stuffing)

One 12-ounce chunk whole-wheat bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 7 cups)

14 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) unsalted butter

2 large white onions, chopped

2 ribs celery, chopped

1 bulb fennel, cored and chopped

4 apples, cored and chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, stemmed, seeded and chopped

6 ounces pitted prunes (about 26), halved

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1/2 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

1 tablespoon orange zest

Kosher salt, to taste

3 eggs, lightly beaten

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Spread bread cubes on large baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted and dry, about 15 minutes. Transfer bread cubes to a large bowl; set aside.

In an 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high, melt butter. Add onions, celery and fennel and cook until soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the apples, garlic and poblano chiles, then cook until apples are tender, about another 10 minutes.

Add prunes, cumin, pepper, parsley, chives, orange zest and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until hot, about 2 minutes.

Transfer mixture to bowl with bread cubes. Gently stir until combined. Let cool for 10 minutes.

Stir in eggs and season with salt and pepper. Transfer stuffing to a 2-quart oval baking dish and bake until browned, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. Serves 14.

---- Recipe from the November 2009 issue of Saveur magazine

Marcela Valladolid, author of "Fresh Mexico," uses a version of this glaze to combine her Mexican roots with the classic Thanksgiving staple. The turkey also can be stuffed, but will take longer to cook.

ROASTED TURKEY IN APRICOT-CHILE GLAZE

3 cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup tequila

2 Anaheim chiles, stemmed, seeded and cut into large chunks

3/4 cup apricot jam, divided

One 12- to 14-pound turkey

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

In medium saucepan over medium, combine broth, butter, tequila, chiles and 1/2 cup of apricot jam. Bring to boil and cook until chiles are soft and tender.

Transfer mixture to blender and puree until smooth. Press mixture through fine-mesh strainer. Discard solids.

Return 1 1/2 cups of mixture to saucepan, reserving the rest for gravy. Simmer over medium for 10 minutes, or until reduced by half. Stir in remaining 1/4 cup of apricot jam to make glaze. Season with salt and pepper.

Place turkey on rack set in large roasting pan. Carefully separate turkey's skin from flesh, trying to avoid breaking skin. Pour half of the glaze under skin and rub it into turkey.

Replace skin, then rub remaining mixture over outside. Wrap wing tips in foil and roast for 1 hour. Cover turkey with foil, then roast for another 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until breast registers 160 degrees and thickest part of thigh reaches 170 degrees.

Allow turkey to rest in pan for 10 minutes. Transfer turkey to serving platter and let it rest another 10 minutes.

While turkey rests on platter, place roasting pan with drippings on stovetop. Bring to a simmer over low, then stir in reserve chile sauce. Scrape bottom of pan with wooden spoon or silicone spatula to loosen any brown bits.

Simmer for 10 minutes, or until thickened, then season with salt and pepper. Strain out chunks or leave them in to add texture. Makes a 12- to 14-pound turkey with gravy.

---- Recipe adapted from Marcela Valladolid's "Fresh Mexico," Clarkson Potter, 2009

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Iraqi refugees move to Mich. despite poor economy - WNDU

Posted: 22 Nov 2009 02:20 PM PST

The U.S. government resettled Iraqi refugee Mazen Alsaqa in Massachusetts in February.

Within a month, he had moved to Michigan.

Alsaqa didn't dislike Massachusetts, but he never thought about staying. The only place he wanted to live was the Detroit area, where he's closer to relatives.

Tens of thousands have fled Michigan's troubled economy in recent years. But Iraqi refugees continue to move there despite a U.S. government policy trying to limit refugee resettlement in the Detroit area.

Family ties and cultural support from the region's large Middle Eastern community appear no match for the U.S. effort to ease economic strains.

Experts say the "secondary migration" poses its own challenges but could be better for refugees' long-term adjustment.

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Villaraigosa heads to Mexico for cultural event and business meetings - Los Angeles Times Blogs

Posted: 26 Nov 2009 08:49 PM PST

Los Angeles Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa is scheduled to visit Mexico over the next four days to lead a delegation of authors, artists, filmmakers and musicians to the 2009 Guadalajara International Book Fair, where Los Angeles has been declared the guest of honor.

Villaraigosa also plans to meet with business leaders in Guadalajara and Mexico City to encourage investment in Los Angeles, according to a statement released by his press office.

--Phil Willon

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Lambert’s AMA Antics: It’s our own fault - Tucson Citizen

Posted: 26 Nov 2009 08:42 PM PST

Should Adam Lambert apologize for his American Music Awards performance?

Should Adam Lambert apologize for his American Music Awards performance?

Former American Idol contestant Adam Lambert is getting a lot of flack for his performance at the 2009 American Music Awards on ABC.  He kissed a guy, groped male and female dancers, dragged a girl around by a leash, and gyrated (with a guy's face against his crotch).  Oh ya, and he flipped everyone off too.

According to Rolling Stone Magazine, Lambert said, "Female performers have been doing this for years — pushing the envelope about sexuality — and the minute a man does it, everybody freaks out."

Is he right?

The Parent's Television Council urged viewers to complain.  About 1,500 complaints were promptly phoned into ABC and Lambert's performance on Good Morning America was canceled.

I totally think we had this coming, and don't understand why we are complaining NOW.  Why are we so shocked when we've become so permissive and accepting of behavior that pushes the limits.  Our current society is built on the notion that that sex sells and advertising messages are everywhere and get bolder every day.

I'm not trying to be a prude.  I can understand sex as art.  However sex is often disguised as art or freedom, when it's just being used as a tool to sell or influence.

Anybody look at the little girl's sections of clothing stores?  When I was younger I would have thought most of it was hooker attire.  I bet you know a little girl under eight who has mastered the art of gyrating like their favorite artist (and their moms are so proud).  It's okay for women over 35 (even married women) to want to be cougars or a MILF (and purchase things to help them become one).  Some daytime soap operas come pretty close to soft porn. How many times in everyday life have you seen the image of a woman or girl sensuously licking a lollipop, popsicle or their own finger?  Or a woman straddling something in a sexual way?  How many little kids see it?  We seem to accept this.

The line in the sand has been moved time and time again.  Sex is to entertainment and advertising as sugar, salt and fat are to fast food.  They are all lures they hope we are fish-brained enough to bite.

Is Lambert's behavior unprecedented?  Madonna has shared open mouth kisses with Brittany Spears and Christina Aguilera.  Madonna and Janet Jackson are crotch grabbers and have had their dancers in submissive sexually-suggestive positions with groping.  During a live performance at the MTV Video Awards the musical act t.A.T.u. included hundreds of young-looking girls dressed as school girls who stripped down to what appeared to be underwear and they gyrated and interacted in ways that were suggestive of an orgy.  The act concluded with lots of girl-on-girl kissing.

Katy Perry's song "I Kissed a Girl" (and I liked it) has enjoyed much commercial success and was nominated for a Grammy.  It was even nominated for favorite song at the 2009 Kid's Choice Awards.  This is a song that includes lyrics like "I got so brave, drink in hand, lost all discretion"  and "No I don't even know your name. It doesn't matter.  You're my experimental game."  What if Adam Lambert had tried to sing "I Kissed a Boy" (and I liked it) at the AMA's?  Would it be nominated for a Kid's Choice award?  I have a hard time seeing that.

So why did the malleable line in the sand become a barricade for Adam Lambert?  On Wednesday, Sherri Shepherd of ABC's The View offered an explanation:

Shepherd said, "The thing about Adam versus Janet and Madonna, is he hasn't earned that position yet."  This was met with applause from the audience.  She continued, "He just came off American Idol.  I'm not saying you earn a right to do that…but what I'm saying…is we've grown up with Madonna.  We didn't even know Adam Lambert."

Say what?

I agreed when Whoopie Goldberg responded that was bull and that it should be one standard for everybody.  However I don't remember that drawing much applause from the audience.

Lambert's actions certainly aren't hurting his album sales and he is a hot topic now.  The stunts by Madonna and Janet have helped them pull through stale moments in their careers.  Art or manipulation?

When Lambert's appearance was cancelled on ABC's morning show, CBS snatched him up for the Early Show.  However, curiously, it's been reported when they showed clips of both Lambert's and Madonna's same-sex open-mouth kisses, Lambert's clip was blurred out.  Madonna's was not.  According to Extratv, when questioned why they did that, a rep for CBS said, "We gave this some real thought.  The Madonna image is very familiar and appeared countless times including many times on morning television.  The Adam Lambert image is a subject of great current controversy, has not been nearly as widely disseminated, and for all we know, may still lead to legal consequences."

Did Lambert cross the line, or did the novelty of his maleness show a problem we had become blind to in a new light?  He feels the outrage is due to being a gay male.  Maybe.  I think it was more of a shock to see a male, with all the perceived physical power that entails, than a woman committing those acts.  It's become so "uncool" to bring up questions of what is too sexual for the general public, that we've let so much slip through the cracks in a non-threatening way.  But is it fair?

I wasn't offended by the performance, rather it induced eye rolling.  These music award shows usually feature something shocking so I expected something like it.  His antics reminded me of a high schooler resorting to sex jokes or sexy dress for easy attention when they have nothing else to offer.  Hmmm, reminds me of many current music videos.  The thing is Lambert did have more to offer and the performance itself actually suffered, but the statement he's trying to make is a valid one.

I'm the type of person who has TMI (too much information) limits regardless of who it is.  I don't want to see anybody groping and slobbering over each other in public, regardless of sexual orientation.  I wouldn't want me, my parents, or my best friend to show off  sex moves in a public venue aimed at a general audience as Lambert did.  However, he is definitely not the first and it is not uncommon.

In spite of the controversy, Lambert refuses to apologize.  Should he?  I don't know.  As I wrote before, I think we asked for it and it's our own fault.

PS:  I think I need to mention, Lambert claims the moves were unrehearsed and unplanned.  Did the dancers know they were going to be grabbed, fondled, and a face planted into his crotch?  I haven't seen that question raised.  Hopefully it's because most of us don't believe him.

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